![]() |
|
|||||||
| Homepage | Forum | New Posts - Live! | Member's Cars |
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Notices |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 2,065
![]() |
///Mputer - Worklog
Here we go again
The Car - The Computer - Previous Project This is what it currently looks like in there. The idea is to move the OBC (top unit) to the bottom, and stick the LinITX 8" Widescreen from my previous install, in the top two din's. Got a new console from the stealer for only 28 quid, which shocked me. Remove the bit that will have to go out for sure, using a very primitive tool... a pair of wire cutters! The screen amazingly fits very snugly in there. From the back, and using the touchscreen so you can see through, you can see that the side "fins" and the bottom hold it perfectly in place. Only the top needs to have some fabrication around it to hold it all together. it's as if this console was made to be fabbed! the screen circuits can easily be mounted on the bottom plate. This is what remains from the case, from the last install. You can see the case has a bevel of about 50mm around the screen opening. And just outside of the bevel, there's a line that goes all around the bevelled bit. That line is 1-2mm bigger than the screen's edge And that line fits exactly between the two fins It's the top part that will need most work. The console has a square "ridge" that goes all around... almost. This needs to be completed, so that the ridge will cover the rough outer edge of the case, and the case cover the screen. If the side ridges are extended all the way to the top, it will give the case good support and make sure it's lined up. That's the idea anyway So I'll need to extend all the ridges somehow. I'm thinking of using matches, filled with superglue and glued with resin to complete small chunks, and for the top part, I can use the bit I chopped off from the middle of the console. If only I knew that before I chopped it, I would have cut it longer! To be continued... |
|
Last edited by Sama; 24-02-2008 at 10:02 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Advanced Member
|
So what you going to do with the Climate Control/Heater unit that's at the bottom now?
|
|
__________________
Confusion says: All my post are now on topic. Enforcer Forum____________________________________________BMW Carputers Forum
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 2,065
![]() |
good question!
the HVAC will be controlled via the PC, but it will also physically be moved either to a space behind the armrest, or to the dash. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bristol
Posts: 25,271
My Garage: - Peugeot 306 - BMW E30 325i Touring - Merlin Malt 2 Revelation - Peugeot 306 HDI Meridian ![]() |
now i see why you should have cut that bar longer.
no worry, what you want to do is take a casting of it and then extend it. Clean up the edge and then take a cast of the whole bar...then move it over a bit and make a wider mould than the original piece. Then you will have excess to play with and can make as much as you need from the mould. You can make the mould from some modelling clay in some plastic wiring trunking for support or maybe even some tacky resin - but make sure you have plenty of release agent on the plastic - I can send you thin teflon sheeting and freekote brush on release agent if you want. oh and why does everyone have cars with better dash's than me???? |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bristol
Posts: 25,271
My Garage: - Peugeot 306 - BMW E30 325i Touring - Merlin Malt 2 Revelation - Peugeot 306 HDI Meridian ![]() |
oh and can you not put the HVAC where the ashtray and hazzard light are? or do you want that space for a haptic controller?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | |||
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 2,065
![]() |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Between the two seats at the back, there's two openings the current HVAC can go into with some modification. One would be flat, so unlucky rear seat passengers can access it, or in slanted opening, And this the lack of armrest is this: which I'd like to change by elevating it a little, and sticking some cushion to it, so I can put my arm on it, rather than in it! Will need to look at some other car's interior and buy one that fits. This would probably mean loosing the slanted opening though, as it would look very odd otherwise. haptic can then go into ashtray. but I think as it stands, the haptic there would not be in a natural position for access. | |||
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Advanced Member
|
I have an armrest, its called the steering wheel.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bristol
Posts: 25,271
My Garage: - Peugeot 306 - BMW E30 325i Touring - Merlin Malt 2 Revelation - Peugeot 306 HDI Meridian ![]() |
my record for handsfree driving is 60 miles without touching the wheel
I did indicate though as i was driving a pug not a bimmer at the time. I was gonna fit out the pug with buttock activated indicators so I dont have to raise my hands to the indicator. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Advanced Member
|
nice work there sama! i keep my eyes peeled on this thread
|
|
__________________
JAMES: Navigation, Multimedia, Camera, POI warner, Mobile Phone, radio.. all in one frontend: click here for JAMES downloads, support, FMR's and comments |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bristol
Posts: 25,271
My Garage: - Peugeot 306 - BMW E30 325i Touring - Merlin Malt 2 Revelation - Peugeot 306 HDI Meridian ![]() |
Sama: the moulding would give you lots and lots of exactly the same edging as the stock dash. just an idea as i remember how much trouble you had last time!
another idea is get someone with the CNC mill to machine you a big long strip from plastic or aluminium - wont cost much but you can use it to make nice straight edges and then just work on the corners...then again why not pay someone to make you a nice aluminium bezel that fits in perfect? this is the 850CSI afterall - spoil it. as for the materials...i would just use epoxy resin with some fine glass to reinforce it. you can pick the stuff up from model shops in small amounts or boat builders or modelling/arts supplies online (and probably lots of places in London). push comes to shove use a nice bit bottle of pink grip wood glue and reinforce it with cloth. Wood glue is pretty strong stuff. |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 2,065
![]() |
just got me some epoxy putty. dries in 10m stuff. Should do the trick. I think I'll use cling film instead of release agent.
no need for aluminium to be honest, this should be a very easy bezel to do... fingers crossed |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Advanced Member
|
|
|
__________________
Confusion says: All my post are now on topic. Enforcer Forum____________________________________________BMW Carputers Forum
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Advanced Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bristol
Posts: 25,271
My Garage: - Peugeot 306 - BMW E30 325i Touring - Merlin Malt 2 Revelation - Peugeot 306 HDI Meridian ![]() |
you will use loads of epoxy...and cling film is no good.
actually iy aint bad as we use it in work as its cheap but still...no. i have some proper film if you are doing any bonding and need something that wont stick to filler or epoxy. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|